-By A Special Correspondent
(Lanka-e-News -17.July.2025, 11.20 PM) The clatter of steel spatulas against hotplates, the aromatic sizzle of kottu roti on roadside stalls, and the allure of claypot curries wafting through beachside restaurants have long been part of the island charm that draws tourists to Sri Lanka. But beneath the sensory delights of the nation’s booming food sector lies a troubling undercurrent: serious questions are now being raised over the hygiene practices in a growing number of food outlets—ranging from humble street vendors to acclaimed high-end establishments.
A recent raid by Public Health Inspectors (PHIs) and local council officials at two popular eateries in Colombo—Mr. Kottu Grant and Big Bite Biryani—has exposed shocking lapses in food safety and sanitary practices. What began as a routine inspection turned into a full-blown investigation as authorities uncovered not only expired ingredients but also egregious cross-contamination between raw and cooked foods, unwashed utensils, and storage conditions that would make even the hardiest diner flinch.
According to officials involved in the raid, the kitchens at both establishments were a veritable disaster zone. Raw chicken was found stored alongside pre-cooked rice dishes. Cutting boards used for raw meat had not been cleaned in hours. Refrigerators were overstuffed, often at incorrect temperatures. None of the staff wore gloves or hairnets, and handwashing stations were conspicuously absent.
"It was a biological minefield," said one senior PHI who asked to remain anonymous due to the ongoing nature of the probe. "Food was being reheated multiple times, meat was stored uncovered in grimy plastic containers, and the same cloth was being used to wipe both plates and kitchen floors. It defied belief."
What is even more disturbing is that these establishments are not obscure eateries tucked away in back alleys—they are well-known, centrally located outlets frequented by both tourists and locals.
Though Mr. Kottu Grant and Big Bite Biryani have been temporarily shut pending further investigation, they are far from isolated cases. Across Colombo and in popular coastal towns such as Mirissa, Galle, and Hikkaduwa, similar complaints are being lodged with alarming frequency. Public health officers in Galle revealed that over 60% of food outlets inspected in the past year failed to meet minimum hygiene requirements.
Even some five-star hotels have not been immune. In a confidential internal report leaked to Lankaenews, International Hotel Inspectors raised concerns about declining kitchen standards in several major hospitality chains, particularly in post-pandemic operations where staff turnover and lax management have contributed to the deterioration in quality.
"It’s not only the roadside kottu stands we should be worried about," said a senior hotel inspector who formerly worked with the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority. "We’ve had reports of rodents in storerooms, unlabelled frozen seafood, and employees working double shifts without changing uniforms. The rot runs deep."
Food has long been an integral part of Sri Lanka's soft power—a tool of diplomacy as much as delight. With tourism slowly recovering from the twin crises of the Easter Sunday attacks in 2019 and the Covid-19 pandemic, one would expect authorities and business owners to seize the opportunity to burnish the island’s culinary reputation.
Instead, the country's gastronomic identity is being undermined by its own negligence. Tourists report falling ill after consuming contaminated food, with diarrhoea and food poisoning becoming a recurring complaint in travel blogs and TripAdvisor reviews.
“It was my fourth visit to Sri Lanka and possibly my last,” said Rachel, a tourist from Manchester who spent three days in a private hospital in Galle after eating seafood at a beachfront café. “It was delicious, but I had no idea the prawns had been sitting out in the sun for hours. There was no refrigeration, no ice—just a display counter and good lighting. It fooled me.”
Such testimonials are not just anecdotal. The Health sources in Colombo confirmed that between January and June 2025, over 7,300 cases of food-borne illness were reported across the island—a 26% increase compared to the same period last year.
One of the fundamental problems is that the nation’s public health infrastructure is not equipped to handle the rapid proliferation of food outlets, particularly with the rise of “food buses”—mobile dining units—and pop-up eateries in tourist hotspots. PHIs are vastly under-resourced. In some districts, one inspector is tasked with overseeing over 300 establishments.
Dr. Gunasekara, admits that the system is under strain. “We simply do not have enough inspectors or equipment to conduct comprehensive reviews. Many local councils lack the funding to maintain up-to-date food safety laboratories. The will is there, but the resources are not.”
He added that public pressure and investigative journalism could help galvanise action. “When we receive credible reports and photographic evidence, it allows us to escalate matters. But citizens must also be empowered with knowledge—what hygiene standards to expect and how to report violations.”
In response to the growing crisis, health experts and tourism professionals are calling for the urgent implementation of a national food hygiene rating system, similar to that used in the UK or Singapore.
Under such a system, every food outlet—from roadside stalls to five-star hotels—would be inspected at least once every 90 days and rated on a five-star scale. These ratings would be made public and displayed prominently at the entrance of each establishment. Outlets that fail to meet minimum standards would be forced to shut down until rectification is complete.
The newly elected NPP-led government, which campaigned heavily on transparency and accountability, has pledged to consider such reforms. A draft proposal is reportedly under review by the Ministry of Public Administration and Local Government.
“We are committed to reforming the food safety ecosystem,” said a Health Ministry official,. “A hygiene rating system, backed by robust regulation and regular inspections, will give confidence to both locals and international visitors. Our people deserve to eat with dignity and safety.”
Past efforts to improve food safety in Sri Lanka have often been derailed by corruption. Inspectors were known to accept bribes in exchange for overlooking violations. In one notorious case, a Colombo restaurant allegedly paid LKR 200,000 to avoid being named and shamed after a severe case of food poisoning sent four patrons to hospital in 2022.
However, the current administration has vowed zero tolerance for malpractice. Several PHIs found to be colluding with business owners have already been suspended or transferred, and new internal audits are underway in several municipal councils.
Still, critics remain sceptical. “It’s one thing to announce reform,” said Professor Perera, a food safety expert at the University of Peradeniya. “It’s another thing entirely to institutionalise it across a nation that still views regulation as an obstacle rather than a safeguard.”
As Sri Lanka positions itself as a hub for eco-tourism, wellness travel, and culinary experiences, food hygiene is no longer just a domestic issue—it’s a matter of global credibility. From the bustling alleyways of Pettah to the polished counters of Negombo’s resort cafés, the nation’s kitchens are under the microscope.
Whether the country will rise to meet the challenge remains to be seen. For now, diners—both local and foreign—are advised to eat with eyes wide open.
-By A Special Correspondent
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by (2025-07-17 19:58:14)
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